Long Island Wineries & Vineyards

In an unusual twist of fate, it may have been the idealistic expectations of a young married couple, freshly graduated from Harvard University that sparked the evolution of the wine industry on Long Island. Louisa and Alex Hargraves had developed a passion for French wines and naively believed they could create the same quality and elegance on their Cutchogue property on the North Fork of Long Island.

It may have been providential that they purchased those 66 acres near John Wickham, a local fruit grower with family roots in Long Island soil that dated back to the 1600s. While he was more than a little discouraging in his assessment of the potential for the Hargraves Vineyard to succeed, he proved an invaluable and generous resource for the hopeful young couple.

Wickham's crops were proof that the more delicate vinifera European grapes could not only survive but could thrive on Long Island. He had been growing them as table grapes for his own use and his farm stand since the 1960s. Wickham's experience would be key to the implementation of the Hargraves' project. Additionally, they relied on a basic viticulture text from UC Davis, Virgil's essays on agriculture and the more general trial and error approach. And errors were made.

Trying to imitate the growing model of California failed because Long Island is not as hot. On the other hand, modeling the vineyard techniques of the Finger Lakes Region of New York and its growing season did not work because Long Island is not as cold. Eventually, growers would realize that Long Island's climate and terrain most closely resembled that of certain areas of France. Even the original vinifera vines ordered from a California nursery and guaranteed to be virus-free had to be pulled because they were, in fact, infected with a virus.

In spite of set-backs, the Hargraves planted 17 acres in 1973 and thus began Long Island's wine industry. The following year, working with David Mudd, they produced their first Merlot, a forerunner of what would be the most prolific grape for this region. Mudd was a retired airline pilot who started his own vineyard at the same time as he caught the insatiable enthusiasm of the Hargraves. He would later go on to found his own vineyard installation and management company that has been responsible for setting up more than one half of the current vineyards on Long Island. He has been a huge fan of Merlots and strongly advocated planting this varietal over others.

By 1978 The Hargraves had a Cabernet-Merlot blend and just two years later they offered a Merlot varietal that would become the dominant red wine on Long Island.

During the 1980s other attempts were made to break into the wine industry, not for mass production and quick wealth, but for the idealistic goal of producing a world class wine on the east coast of the United States. The obsession with quality over quantity remains the governing principle for most of the wine producers on Long Island, even today. Quality harvests remain comparatively small and sell out quickly.

In 1988 an event happened that would energize and focus the fledgling wine industry on Long Island. A two-day symposium entitled "Bringing Bordeaux to Long Island" brought about the self-realization that the "terroir"-the climate, topography, soil and even the winemaking culture of Long Island vineyards was more closely related to Bordeaux, France than anywhere else in the world. It was truly an "aha" moment as growers began to appreciate their identity and potential, and this series of meetings was instrumental in moving the local wine industry to a new level of maturity. Both old world techniques and artisanal methodologies were shared and absorbed as part of what would become Long Island's unique brand.

In 1990, a second similar conference was held, but the focus this time was directed at supporting the production of Merlots as the most promising red wine varietals for the area. About the same time, money arrived on the island in the form of rich businessmen, doctors, real estate developers and executives who were financially prepared to invest in a new island opportunity. Existing farms that had failed and fallen into bankruptcy in the 1980s were scooped up, land was purchased and new vineyards were planted. Old potato barns were converted into wineries, and new buildings were erected to resemble old potato barns for the same purpose.

These new vineyard owners planted Merlot grape vines. They brought in expert Bordelaise consultants and experienced managers. Because they had already been successful in other business pursuits, their prior financial experience worked well in this new undertaking. Their goal was always to produce high quality wines, no matter how long that took, and fortunately for them, they were already wealthy enough to wait out the process. They shared one quality with the Hargraves-a determination to be successful and produce a product of which they could be proud.

In 1998, the world and specifically, New York City, finally had to sit up and pay attention to Long Island wine producers. In an international, blind tasting competition, the North Fork Lenz winery took almost every category against some of the most prestigious and well-loved wines of France. Since that time, The Forks of Long Island have been designated the fourth most important wine-producing region in the United States. The vineyards are maturing, producing increased complexity and aging of wine flavors. The local brands are now being recognized and requested across the country. Prices for certain bottles have risen notably, a telltale sign that someone knows about good wine.

Four factors have contributed significantly to the success of the Long Island wine industry.

• The match of soil and climate for maximum crop production and ripening.
• The ideal availability of transportation, initially through the Long Island Rail Road system.
• The close proximity (70 miles) to New York City and massive distribution potential.
• Employing world-class vineyard and winery management techniques and personnel.

Of the 33 licensed wine producers on Long Island, 28 are in the North Fork, 3 are in the South Fork (the Hamptons), 1 is elsewhere in Suffolk county and 1 can be found in Nassau County. Locals, especially those from outside North Fork prefer to identify the area inclusively as the "East End" as there tends to be a predominate focus on the majority of businesses in the North Fork.

The excellent growing soil on this most eastern part of Long Island was originally created by debris left behind when the Wisconsin glacier melted thousands of years ago. It has proven rich in nutrients and minerals, not only for potatoes and market garden crops, but for grapes. Although the topsoil is thin, the lower yields that it supports produce a higher quality grape which, in turn, possesses increased flavor concentrations.

The North Fork currently has over 3000 acres in vineyards. The sandy soil and slightly warmer climate due to increased sunshine seem ideal for the Merlots that are planted there. The maritime climate created by surrounding bodies of water guarantees summers that are not excessively hot, winters that are neither too long nor too cold and an average growing season of 210-220 days, similar to Bordeaux. With little danger of late spring frosts, early buds emerge safely. Cooler summers allow the fruit to ripen slowly, which keeps the sugar levels down and the resultant alcohol levels low as well. Experts say that this produces a more complex and aromatic wine flavor. Shading the vines is not necessary which also improves the quality of the ripening fruit.

The South Fork has slightly different growing conditions even though the two areas are separated by only a few miles. Frequent fogs tend to blanket this area, blocking earth-warming heat from the sun. The ground also tends to be damper and the silt/loam combination has poorer drainage. The Merlots that are grown here have a more restrained flavor and are less fruity, perhaps a bit more earthy and sensual.

As a red wine, many experts consider the Long Island Merlots to be a cut above the California variety. In an attempt to capture the market, California growers over-planted their vineyards, resulting in a generally reduced quality and appeal. The disparaging comments made in the movie "Sideways" unfortunately cast all Merlots into the same vat. The Long Island cousins are known to be lean, energetic, more refreshing and great as a food companion or a stand-alone pleasure.

While the Merlots may be the attention-getters on Long Island, they are definitely not the only quality wines on the block, or, in this case, in the vineyards. Cabernet Francs, Cabernet Sauvignons, white Chardonnays, Gewu?rztraminer, sparkling wines and rosés are all respected as well.

Not all wineries on Long Island grow their own grapes. Some choose to purchase from local vineyards. In fact, at least one South Fork winery uses North Fork produce. Others send their grapes to the Premium Wine Group, a Cutchogue service that "custom-crushes" according to individual client specifications. Both traditional hand harvesting and sorting methods are employed as well as modern mechanical harvesting which usually occurs near the end of October. Merlots tend to be forgiving and tolerant, allowing some room for setting a harvesting date, a real advantage for Long Islanders and their less-than-predictable weather.

More than half of the vineyards and wineries on Long Island are open to the public, and each location has a rich and unique heritage to share. Some of the more popular spots are:

• Channing Daughters - Bridgton, South Fork. Both powerful Merlots and flirtatious whites are popular here. The wines are light-bodied and complex, but in limited quantity and quickly sell out.
• Wolffer Estate-South Fork. Originally purchased as a weekend getaway, the business opened in 1997. It produces 15,000 cases annually from 55 acres. It also has 100 acres devoted to equestrian pursuits and makes cheeses.
• Lenz-Some consider the Merlots from this vineyard to be the most interesting because of their intense mineral and anise flavorings.
• Duck Walk Vineyards -The Damianos family is the largest wine producer on Long Island and also owns Pindar and Jayson's Jamesport Vineyards, offering more than 50,000 cases annually.
• Long Island Merlot Alliance - This cooperative of 5 East End estate vintners is open to any grower who passes a certain standard of quality. After a controversial start, the co-op has focused on promoting Merlot as Long Island's premier brand.
• Christiana Family Vineyards - Southold, North Fork. Relative newcomers with a small seven acre operation.
• Macari Vineyards - Planting 200 of 440 acres, the Macari approach is directed towards being "stewards of the land." These vineyards are maintained as organically as possible including cattle manure, fish heads, horns, kelp and nettle tea all composted for fertilizer. Of the 17,000 cases of wine produced annually, 60% are consumed or purchased on site through the two tasting rooms. The remainder is sold to New York City and Brooklyn restaurants.

Long Island produces more than 500,000, 12-case bottles of wine for each vintage season. At least 1.2 million tourists visit the vineyards and wineries annually, during which as much as 50%-60% of total sales are made. Direct marketing by owners has encouraged people to visit the tasting rooms through both sponsored tours and private excursions. Because music, food, and entertainment are often included to draw in a larger customer base, there has been some concern by other non-agricultural businesses in the area, especially in Southold and Riverhead.

The bottom line is that tourism as a whole has profited by the influx of wine lovers from New York City and beyond. Wine clubs, are growing in popularity, but are not yet on par with those in California as revenue producers. New Asian sales may be opening up, especially in China where a taste for things Western appears to be growing. Since Long Island wines have now been internationally recognized and appreciated, they should claim some of these emerging markets. Young entrepreneurs, always eager to try a new product are also interested in the island's wines. As the vintages age, collectors will also be watching and waiting. All in all, the future looks very positive for Long Island wineries.

• Long Island Wineries
• Long Island Vineyards
• Long Island Wineries
• LIWines.com